4 étapes faciles pour une peau lisse et claire (un guide étape par étape pour un rabotage à l'huile en toute sécurité)

There is more to skincare than meets the eye. When working with topical products, it is important to make sure that your skin is absorbing them deeply enough to get the desired benefit. It is equally important that you use ingredients that are safe, effective and of medicinal quality. There are many steps that can be taken to enhance the effectiveness of topical products. The simplest of those steps are exfoliation and dermaplaning.

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Dermaplaning is a simple and quick beauty treatment that can improve the appearance of the skin. The process involves using a sharp blade to gently exfoliate the surface of the skin, removing any dead cells and fine hair. Dermaplaning can be done on all skin types, and it's especially beneficial for those with dry or uneven skin (1).

Dermaplaning is a great way to remove peach fuzz, product build-up, dirt, and oil from your pores, which can help reduce the appearance of acne and blackheads. It also helps remove any fine facial hair, which can help makeup look smoother and more natural. With continued use, it may smooth fine lines and allow skincare products to penetrate deeper (2–3).

One of the key components of dermaplaning is using a good face oil or oil combination. Not all oils are created equal, so it is important to know how to choose one that will be most beneficial for your skin:

Tip #1 - Choose an oil that is organic and cold-pressed

When choosing a face oil, it is important to select one that is cold-pressed or unrefined. This means that the oil has been extracted from the fruit or seed using pressure instead of heat or chemicals. Oils that have been processed in this way retain more of their natural nutrients and antioxidants, which can be beneficial for healing sensitive skin (4).

Tip #2 - Consider the medicinal benefits

When choosing a facial oil, it's important to think about what it's made of. Some oils are high in antioxidants, vitamins, minerals, and other beneficial ingredients for your skin type. For example, an antioxidant-rich oil like cranberry seed oil may be beneficial for those with dry or aging skin (5).

Sea Buckthorn oil, which has more than 190 active minerals and nutrients, can be used both topically and internally as a skincare oil. Studies show that it contains many skin-rejuvenating compounds, including antioxidants, omega fatty acids, vitamin E, carotenoids, free amino acids, flavonoids, and many more (6). When used on the surface of the skin, it can give the skin essential fatty acids, help skin that is prone to acne, reduce irritation after hair removal, and help the skin make collagen. More collagen is shown to decrease fine lines and help heal acne scars (7).

The oil from cranberry seeds is high in antioxidants and has a balanced hydration ratio of Omega 3, 6, and 9 at an exact 1:1:1 ratio. It is also full of healing vitamins and antioxidants (8). Vitamins A, C, E, and K are known to improve the appearance of the skin, speed up cell turnover, and help the body make more collagen (9). Since the oil is another natural way to protect against UV rays, its high proanthocyanidin content may help reduce sunspots and other signs of ageing (10).

Studies also show that the oil contains phytosterols, which are great for ageing skin (8, 10). When used with dermaplaning, it can support dry skin types, help with uneven skin tone, reduce the appearance of dark spots and support the skin's barrier function. To learn more about the phytonutrients in plant oils Click Here.

Black Seed has one of the oils that scientists have conducted numerous studies on . It can be used topically to help with issues like vitiligo and skin infections. The oil has also been studied for psoriasis, allergies, and eczema, all of which are autoimmune diseases (11,12). Black seed oil is not only a great topical antimicrobial, but it also makes a great medium for suspending any other oil because it helps blood flow. It has been demonstrated to reduce skin inflammation and even skin tone pigmentation (12).

1. For best results, start with a clean face that has been washed with a gentle cleanser and lightly exfoliated to remove the dead skin cells.
2. Dermaplaning can be done at home, but it's important to use the right tools. You'll need a sharp blade, face oil (to help with the glide), rubbing alcohol, and ice water.
   • Choose the right dermaplaning blade and sanitize it
   • Apply a thin layer of facial oil on your skin
   • Most sources state that it's important to wet your skin before you start dermaplaning. However, water may help encourage bacterial growth. Oils will help reduce friction on the skin's surface. They make the process easier without encouraging bacterial growth. Oils also provide a more consistent glide. 
3. Start working in upward motions
   • Shave in upward motions to avoid irritation and ingrown hairs. Be careful not to press too hard on your skin, as this can also cause irritation. The results are smoother skin with less irritation.
   • Make sure you are going slow enough and not tugging hard at mature skin
4. Finish with cold water
   • Once you're finished dermaplaning, rinse your skin with cold water to close your pores and reduce inflammation.
   • For best results, make dermaplaning a part of your regular skincare routine as it can reduce the risk of breakouts, diminish the appearance of fine lines, help the body absorb vital nutrients and improve the level of moisture in the skin.

Q: Is dermaplaning the same as facial shaving?

A: Not exactly. Dermaplaning is a process that uses a single-bladed facial razor to remove vellus hair (peach-fuzz) and exfoliate the skin. It smooths the skin's surface, supports dehydrated skin, and leaves skin with a brighter complexion that has a natural dewy glow.

Q: Does dermaplaning make the facial hair thicker?

A: No, the fine hairs on the skin do not get thicker or grow faster with dermaplaning.

Q: What supplements can I take to improve my skin health while dermaplaning?

• Vitamin C - improves vascular health and is essential for making collagen.
• Internal use of the oils used for dermaplaning - The internal use of sea buckthorn oil is shown to further support topical use with the diminishing of fine lines on thin skin. Specific skin concerns like psoriasis, rosacea, and eczema may benefit from the internal use of black seed oil. The oil is shown to help the healing of immune-related skin conditions.

Article References

1. Pryor L, Gordon CR, Swanson EW, Reish RG, Horton-Beeman K, Cohen SR. Dermaplaning, topical oxygen, and photodynamic therapy: a systematic review of the literature. Aesthetic plastic surgery. 2011 Dec;35(6):1151-
2. Johnson W. Behind exfoliation. Professional Beauty. 2014 Aug(Jul/Aug 2014):62-4.
3. Grajqevci-Kotori M, Kocinaj A. Exfoliative skin-peeling, benefits from this procedure and our experience. Medical Archives. 2015 Dec;69(6):414.
4. Symoniuk E, Ratusz K, Ostrowska-Ligęza E, Krygier K. Impact of selected chemical characteristics of cold-pressed oils on their oxidative stability determined using the rancimat and pressure differential scanning calorimetry method. Food Analytical Methods. 2018 Apr;11(4):1095-104.
5. Luo Y, Yuan F, Li Y, Wang J, Gao B, Yu L. Triacylglycerol and Fatty Acid Compositions of Blackberry, Red Raspberry, Black Raspberry, Blueberry and Cranberry Seed Oils by Ultra-Performance Convergence Chromatography-Quadrupole Time-of-Flight Mass Spectrometry. Foods. 2021 Oct 21;10(11):2530. Popescu CA,
6. Popescu CA, Popescu BO, Daas D, Morgovan CL, Olah NK. Antimicrobial efficacy of the organic greasy oils combination-sea buckthorn oil and maize germs oil. Farmacia. 2014 Jul 1;62(4):743-52.
7. Koskovac M, Cupara S, Kipic M, Barjaktarevic A, Milovanovic O, Kojicic K, Markovic M. Sea buckthorn oil—A valuable source for cosmeceuticals. Cosmetics. 2017 Oct 16;4(4):40.
8. Ahmad N, Anwar F, Abbas A. Cranberry Seed Oil. InFruit Oils: Chemistry and Functionality 2019 (pp. 663-674). Springer, Cham.
9. Eno M. The effect of the supplementation of cranberry seed oil on the lipid profiles of human subjects.
10. Shivananda Nayak B, Dan Ramdath D, Marshall JR, Isitor G, Xue S, Shi J. Wound‐healing properties of the oils of Vitis vinifera and Vaccinium macrocarpon. Phytotherapy Research. 2011 Aug;25(8):1201-8.
11. Ghorbanibirgani A, Khalili A, Rokhafrooz D. Comparing Nigella sativa oil and fish oil in treatment of vitiligo. Iranian Red Crescent Medical Journal. 2014 Jun;16(6).
12. Tavakkoli A, Mahdian V, Razavi BM, Hosseinzadeh H. Review on clinical trials of black seed (Nigella sativa) and its active constituent, thymoquinone. Journal of pharmacopuncture. 2017 Sep;20(3):179.